For Stock Images. Some of these websites below carry more than just images, example; Stock Images,  Textures, Backgrounds, 3D renders, Web Templates etc… Also some of these also have paid for services as well as free services.

stock.xchng
Open Photo
Free Photos Bank
Stock Vault
Free Digital Photos

Free Stock Videos (Loops, backgrounds and countdowns etc)

Movie Tools
Stock Footage for Free

Free Music Loops (Vocals, sound fx etc. There are so many of these sites out there, I’m sure you know some I am missing)

Looperman
Free-Loops

This is by no means a comprehensive list of resources nor is it a review just the ones I choose to use on a regular basis. Also I don’t endorse any of the sites I am just simply stating that they exist. If you feel that I need to include something then leave a comment and I will add it to the list above if I feel that it is appropriate.

Enjoy and Have a Good’n!

grep -i name /proc/bus/input/devices
lshal | grep Aiptek

The following information is for installing aiptek-based USB tablets for Linux and X11, not to be confused with the older serial-based hyper pen module. This tablet is also known as a Dolphin, Medion (Aldi tablet), Nisis and a few other generic brands.

The xserver-xorg-input-aiptek package must be installed to use this tablet, this is where I ran into my biggest troubles. I keep trying to install wizardpen drivers because all my searches for Ubuntu and DigiPro were leading me to results that linked to wizardpen drivers instructions, hence why I am writing this. To install run the following command.

sudo apt-get install xserver-xorg-input-aiptek

Support for the Aiptek tablet has improved a tremendous amount in a short time since Ubuntu 8.04. One of the more confusing things is setting the correct configuration setup for HAL. The settings for the tablet are now stored with HAL, and no longer requires one to have to edit the xorg.conf file. The following will fix you up; create a file named 10-aiptek.fdi, in the directory /etc/hal/fdi/policy with the following content (make note if your tablet has 1024 levels of pressure sensitivity use 1023 instead of 511):

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> 
<deviceinfo version="0.2">
  <device>
    <match key="info.product" contains="Aiptek">
      <merge key="input.x11_driver" type="string">aiptek</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.SendCoreEvents" type="string">true </merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.USB" type="string">On</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.Type" type="string">stylus</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.Mode" type="string">absolute</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.zMin" type="string">0</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.zMax" type="string">511</merge>
      <merge key="input.x11_options.KeepShape" type="string">On</merge>
    </match>
  </device>
</deviceinfo>

All you need to do now is to restart udev and xorg or for simplicity just reboot, for newbies I recommend rebooting just to be safe.

Now most people will be using their tablets to draw in GIMP but almost everyone will notice that if they try and use it now the 512/1024 pressure sensitive feature will not be working, not to worry this is a GIMP configuration problem. To configure GIMP to use the pressure sensitive feature navigate here in the menus Edit >> Preferences >> Input Devices >> Configure Extended Input Devices … Now you need set the mode to either window or screen I screen but the choice is yours. Save your settings and restart GIMP for good measure and off you go.

Some tablets (6000U, 12000U, 14000U) seems to use Wacom drivers, if you experience problems with button presses (Your mouse pointer freezes), but you can move the cursor try the updated packets for Wacom.

(I think I’ll write a review on this tablet too I like it a lot)

Enjoy and Have a Good’n!

You will need to create a new canvas for your cloud, here are the settings that I used.

Alright, now I guess we need a sky to put our cloud in so let’s grab our gradient tool and use the following colors #23B7FF and #8FE1f2 and create a gradient “sky” something like this.

To create the could we are actually going to be just selecting a region as the outline for the cloud. Create a new layer to put the cloud on and the use the circle/ellipse tool and, the following settings, just click around until you have a shape that you are happy with. Below is what I wound up with.

On this new layer we need to fill in the selected area, so get out your bucket fill tool and fill the selection up with a cloud color, I chose #FDFDFD.

Now that we have the base for our cloud lets give it some depth. What I do here is simple but effective. Create a new layer making sure you leave the cloud selected. Grab the spray brush tool and set the foreground color to #838383. Now using the below settings kinda spray a little gray on the bottoms of the clouds.

Next we drop a shadow using the drop shadow tool with the following settings.

I know this looks pretty convincing but lets not stop here lets finish this off. Select the layer with gray shadows because we need to do two things here. One, we need to smear the shadows so they look more realistic and two, we need to adjust the opacity so they blend well with the shadows. Use your best judgment here on what looks best but just don’t over do it. By the way the reason we do this now instead of before we drop the shadow is so we can get the proper blend with the shadow.

And there you have it the best looking cartoon clouds I ever made, even if I do say so myself.

Enjoy and Have a Good’n!

Real quick I am going to make a few assumptions, one being that you can easliy cut the ship out of the left image , insert it, and then re-size it to come up with something that looks very similar to the next image. If you are having trouble getting the ship without th white background into the pool then you need to read up on basic GIMP usage before you continue. Anyway here is our starting point.

First thing you need to do is re-size the image and make it look like it is a model ship in a pool and not an out of proportion hideous looking ship. Something like this will work.

Adjusting the Color Balance is where I decided to start, just make sure you have the layer with the ship on it seledted and not the other layer. I did not have to adjust the colors much but I did have to adjust them to get the ship to look like it actually belonged in this picture. Here are the screens of the midtones, shadows, and highlights.

And this is what it looks like after

You now need to give the ship shadows and highlights to match the image. Now I know this can be a tutorial all in its own, and can be done several different ways, so you can can apply your own method here but here is what mine looked like after I finished it. (For those curious I just selected the area occupied by the ship made a new layer filled that area with black and dropped the layer to 75% opacity then took out my air brush  and added a few darker spots in areas to make it look better).

Almost done if you notide everything in this image has a reflection except the boat. So again there are multiple ways to do this but I usually just make a copy of the layer I wish to reflect flip it, change the perspective to match to other reflections, add a little blur if it is reflecting in water, and then drop the opacity down a bit, and finally erase any odd looking parts. And here is my finished product.

Well, if you follow these steps every time you wish to stitch two photos together it will work. There will be some special cases where you will need to adjust brightness, or maybe some of the other color adjustments but the principal is the same make it match the background.There will also be the occasion you will need to patch some photos to make the work but all in all the principal is the same, you are trying to change the foreground images properties to close match the background. Hope this helps somebody any.

Enjoy and Have a Good’n!

For this tutorial will are just going to make some grey smoke on a blank canvas but the technique will apply for any photo or image.

First create a new image any size will do but I used the following so if you want for constancy sakes you can use the same settings.

Next change your brush to a nice grey color, let’s use #777777. Now select the brush tool and use the 11px circle. Now create something similar to the following.

Now select the Gaussian Blur tool: Filters->Blur->Gaussian Blur. and use the following settings.

You should wind up with something similar to this after you apply you apply the blur.

This next step is the most important and something you will need to experiment with to get it looking right. Select the IWarp tool: Filters->Distorts->IWarp… You should try and mimic the movement and look of smoke here when you are done use the shrink option to make the start of the smoke look a little smaller.

Your finished product should look like the following.

Now that you know the secret you realize that it is indeed simple to create smoke in GIMP.

Enjoy and Have a Good’n!

1  Create a new image that is 4px tall by 4px wide with a DPI of 500 and them zoom in to at least 1600% or more.

2. Select the pencil tool and then and make sure you are using the 1 pixel sized pencil.

3. Now we are going to create this image using the following matrix of colors:

4. Now save the pattern for use in GIMP on windows you can save it to a place like c/…/gimp2.0/share/gimp/2.0/patterens/ or in linux you can save it to /home/username/.gimp-2.6/patterns. When you save it save it as a .pat file something like carbon-fiber.pat.

5 Now the next time you start up GIMP you will have a pattern that you can you with your fill tool to create carbon fiber.